CHRISTIAN DIOR HAUTE COUTURE SUMMER 2010

Adorned with top hats and riding crops, John Galliano unveiled the Christian Dior Haute Couture Summer 2010 Collection at Paris Haute Couture Week yesterday. Inspired by all things equestrian, the riders- erm- models sported long side-saddle riding skirts, polo sticks, and top hats set upon oversized updos. Tailored to precision, the jackets were swathed with the bold shades of this spring and summer, with red, black, white, and hunting pink making the most prominent appearances. Many of the jackets were tailored at the waist, some with belts to buckle them in place. Black gloves covered the hands of the models, and silver and black buttons studded the blazers. Collared necks, English plaid, and thick pleats were common attributes, as the regal couture collection reigned supreme.

The next set of gals after the equestrian dolls displayed Galliano’s evening collection, dressed head-to-toe in what looked like ruffian garden party gowns. Drawing inspiration from the era of “The Gibson Girl”, these delicate pieces emulated style icon Millicent Rogers of the early 20th century. With booties cropped just above the ankle and exceedingly large hats bearing veils and feathers, these frocktail dresses were my favorite out of the entire show. Embellished lace and tulle in gorgeous pastel shades were just the ticket to match the beautifully big-haired porcelain dolls upon which the clothes were paraded. Some dresses were once again belted, and many skirts had the bunching-and-hanging quality that I adore. Some of the latter skirt-and-blouse pieces did not quite win my heart, but alas, the prior ones were so overwhelmingly breathtaking that I can forgive the final few.

As for the last set of couture, Galliano wowed the crowd with his cunningly sculpted ball gowns that drew gasps from the mouths of the front-row showgoers including Dita Von Teese and Kylie Minogue. Plum, caramel, jade, and rich burgundy gowns stole the show with ravishing ruffles and bows on many of the pieces. My favorite of the gowns was the beige and caramel piece worn stunningly by Magdalena Frackowiak, her arms veiled in elegant, three-quarter sleeve white gloves. Although not my favorite of his work, the ball gowns were extraordinary. With the mix of his equestrian inspiration, early 20th century glam, and bewitching ball gowns, it is easy to say that recession of not, John Galliano will never lose his magical touch.

Have a look at my four favorites below, from the second set of couture inspired by "The Gibson Girl".

FRONT ROW AT ARMANI PRIVE

The front row at Paris Haute Couture Week (via GraziaLive).

JOHN GALLIANO PAYS TRIBUTE TO HIS HEROES

From Sherlock Holmes to Bunny Rogers, couturier John Galliano pays tribute to his heroes. Take a look!

SPOTTED: TAVI BACKSTAGE AT CHRISTIAN DIOR

Thirteen-year-old prodigal fashion blogger Tavi Gevinson of Style Rookie backstage at Christian Dior interviewing Norweigan model Siri Tollerod. The photo was snapped by New Zealand blogger, Isaac Hindin Miller, confirming Tavi's presence at the haute couture shows, although we are still unsure who she is covering the shows for, possibly for Pop Magazine? (Image via @IsaacLikes)

LEFRANC FERRANT HAUTE COUTURE BEFORE THE SHOW

Lefranc Ferrant haute couture en avant-première. Look 1-4.

via VogueFranceLive

PARIS HAUTE COUTURE WEEK JANUARY 2010 SCHEDULE

Sunday, January 24th, 2010

7PM JOSEPHUS THIMISTER (See Invitation)

Monday, January 25th, 2010

10AM ALEXIS MABILLE (Garage Turenne - 66 rue de Turenne- Paris 3e)

11AM CHRISTOPHE JOSSE (Les Beaux Arts de Paris - salle Melpomène - 13 quai Malaquais - Paris 6e)

12PM ANNE VALERIE HASH (36 boulevard Bonne Nouvelle - Paris 10e)

2:30PM CHRISTIAN DIOR (30 avenue Montaigne - Paris 8e)

6&7PM ADELENINE ANDRÉ (JTM Gallery - 40 rue de Richelieu - Paris 1er)

9PM GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ (Palais de Chaillot - 1 place du Trocadéro - Paris 16e)

Tuesday, January 26th, 2010

10&12PM CHANEL (Pavillon Cambon Capucines - 46 rue Cambon - Paris 1er)

2:30PM STEPHANE ROLLAND (Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine 45 avenue du Président Wilson - Paris 16e)

3:30PM MAURIZIO GALANTE (See Invitation)

4:30PM ATELIER GUSTAVO LINS (10 rue Hérold - Paris 1er)

5:30PM DOMINIQUE SIROP (See Invitation)

7PM GIVENCHY (See Invitation)

Wednesday, January 27th, 2010

10AM ON AURA TOUT VU (JTM Gallery 40 rue de Richelieu - Paris 1er)

11AM FRANCK SORBIER (Sotheby's - 76 rue du faubourg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8e)

12:30PM ELIE SAAB (Théâtre National de Chaillot - 1 place du Trocadéro - Paris 16e)

2:30PM JEAN PAUL GAULTIER (325 rue Saint-Martin - Paris 3e)

4PM LEFRANC FERRANT (Couvent des Recollets - 148 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin - Paris 10e)

5PM MAISION RABIH KAYROUZ (38 boulevard Raspail - Paris 7e)

6:30PM VALENTINO (Couvent des Cordeliers - 15 rue de l'Ecole de Médecine - Paris 6e)

Thursday, January 28th, 2010

from 11AM-6PM (See Invitation)

BOUCHERON, CHANEL JOAILLERIE, CHAUMET, MELLERIO DITS MELLER, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

FYI: VERSACE LAUNCHING MOBILE PHONE

Italian fashion house Versace has announced they are going to jump on the technologically-driven bandwagon by adding themselves to the list of designers who have launched a luxury mobile phone. Versace has made plans with ModeLabs Group for the design, manufacture, and distribution of the new phone, but a design has not yet been released. It will be revealed at a private showing to a select group of clients during Paris Haute Couture Week, which kicked-off today. The phone will be unveiled to all in the spring, but no word yet on the price. [Reuters]

FYI: BRITISH GRAZIA IS NOT PLEASED WITH THEIR VIEW AT CHRISTIAN DIOR HAUTE COUTURE

The editors over at British Grazia do not seem pleased to be sitting behind the front-row thirteen-year-old Tavi Gevinson and watching the Christian Dior couture show through her headpiece. The young blogger is sporting a pink Steven Jones bow-hat at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Images via British Grazia Twitpic.

Backstage Pass With Alexander McQueen: W/09

Drama. Brilliance. Intrigue.

Three words that describe all that emanates from the winter 2008/2009 Alexander McQueen Haute Couture show. As always, McQueen has spun a web of awe to lay upon his avid audience here in Paris this fashion week. The theme of the show was The Girl Who Lived In The Tree, with this thematic tree icon being situated in the center of the podium, enveloped in silk. McQueen appeared to have two separate ideals of inspiration from which he drew, the first set of designs being darker with leggings frequenting the legs of the models, while the second set was clearly contrived from Victorian inspiration. Here it is quite clear that McQueen has taken it back to his British roots; from the high sewing of the 1950's, to the British Empire, and even evident inspiration from the Duke of Wellington. The royal blue and scarlet red corsetted dresses, and the tulle of feathered ballerina gowns that paraded down the runway were simply dazzling. Matched with the razzle-dazzle jewels and maharajah-inspired small slippers that adorned the feet of the models (note that Victoria was an empress of the Indias, hence the Indian influence in the Victorian era), really showed McQueen taking it up a few notches, or perhaps ten. McQueen has always been one to attack the fashion world with controversy and shock tactics, that only make him ever-the-more brilliant with his avant-garde designs. This British designer has a style that is all his own: a theatrical explosion of creatively contrived couture.

But what about behind-the-scenes with one of the fashion world's most prominent designers?Let's take a look at the world behind the majestic curtains, where all the action and creative chaos resides.

Backstage is all a panic, but a pleasant one at that. Hairdressers, runway directors, and make-up artists are scrambling to get their duties done, while excited models lounge about awaiting maquillage and to be called upon. Taking a look at the clothing rack this close is absolutely breathtaking. Bejeweled dressed with corset backs peek out from behind enchanting red gowns. New faces of models look around with happily dazed expressions on their porcelain faces. Abbey Lee giggles to a nearby hairdresser. Well-known returners dawdle around, having done this hundreds of times. Lily Donaldson and Magdalena Frackowiak can be spotted across the room. They come over for a picture, Lily looking charming in a canary yellow ballerina dress, and Magdalena in a captivating white floor-length gown. The young, Belarussian beauty, Tanya Dziahileva, saunters over in a white and red swan princess-esque gown, a mildly bored expression on her luminous face. Her waist-length blonde locks are twisted into an alfalfa-like 'do at the top of her head, and brilliant bijoux dangling from her forehead. All the girls backstage look absolutely ravishing in McQueen's exuberant designs. But wait, what's this? The show is about to begin. Ladies and gentlemen, please take your seats, and allow yourself to be enchanted by the magnetic allure of Alexander McQueen's Hiver 2008 Haute Couture show. Allons-y!

PARIS HAUTE COUTURE SPRING/SUMMER 2009

For those of you who missed it, Paris Haute Couture SS/09 Fashion Week took place just last week, from Monday, January 26th to Wednesday, January 30th. While most of us were writing papers or filing overdue reports, models from across the globe were frolicking down the catwalk in the majestic brilliance of designers such as Christian Lacroix, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, and Valentino. I couldn’t possibly allow the week to pass me by without at least giving a runway report on my absolute favorites of the week; Dior, Lacroix, and Givenchy.

Monday mornings tend to be a drag for most, but fashion fanatics arose with smile-slapped faces to attend the 10 am start to fashion week with Alexis Mabille kicking it off at 51, rue de l’Université. Two shows and separate venues later, the crowds shambled over to 79 rue de Varenne, where Christian Dior sent his masterworks down the room at 2:30pm. Dior’s collection featured Vermeer-inspired designs overflowing with puffs, lace-laden necklines, fitted torsos, and a multitude of resplendent ruffles. Designer John Galliano said that he drew his inspiration for the Dior line from 17th-Century Dutch paintings, in which the poses of the subjects particularly captured his eye. Well, Galliano certainly caught our eyes by sending lavish porcelain dolls decked in genteel pastels from creamy white to Bo-Peep blues down the massive hall. Some of the dresses looked more regal, while other designs looked more like my grandmother’s Sunday tea set (in a good way of course, she never fails to receive a compliment on such splendid porcelain pieces of finery). 

Day two of Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week SS/09 brought a mid-afternoon style snack from mad-genius designer, the great Christian Lacroix. The show kicked-off at three-thirty in the afternoon at the Centre Georges Pompidou off of la rue Beaubourg. One of my personal favorites, Lacroix’s work this spring was a remarkably fresh spin on couture. The French virtuoso took his predominantly wild and striking designs down a notch, in consideration of haute couture. But with inspiration varying from retro prom chic to Spanish luxury to Parisian glam, he still managed to throw his crazy, whimsical “WOW Factor” into the designs that make them unmistakably Lacroix. I must say, every single dress was a masterpiece in this show. Always one to go with “the whole shebang”, models wore over-sized earrings and thin, patterned tights. Some dresses resembled fashion-forward flamenco dancers on their night out, while others looked like frivolous teen prom queen prototypes. Polka dots, exotic color mixtures, vivid flower designs, explosive colors, and scrumptious bows were just some of the many luxuries that Christian Lacroix let the world indulge in this fashion week. As per usual, Lacroix has me head-over-heels in love with his lavish line.

Later that night, Givenchy put on quite the show at Couvent des Cordeliers on 15 rue de l’Ecole de Médecine. Now before I go in deeper I feel compelled to say that although never disappointing, Givenchy has not usually been in my favorites during fashion weeks. However, 2009 has clearly been a year of change thus far, and I must say I was impressed with this collection. Succulent necklines stayed high and close to the neck, while the backs of many dresses took the plunge with crisscrosses and droopy layers. Givenchy played with floral prints and light pastels from yellow to mint green, flirting with the joys of spring in material form. Bunched-up material flowers, thin layers of flowing material, and dresses drizzled with lace were some of my personal favorite highlights of the show. The graceful and dainty collection won my heart this couture week, putting Givenchy in my top three for the week, leaving me yearning for a few of the delicately chic pieces for myself! See the backstage photos on our TUMBLR.

In the two days of frivolous footsteps down the runway coated with spring fashion’s finest, designers in Paris have clearly chosen to turn a blind eye to the economic recession deterring most of us from our frivolous fashion splurges. “Of course I’m aware of the credit crunch, but it is not a creative crunch,” Christian Dior designer John Galliano said after his outstanding display on the Monday evening. As we could tell by the ornate three-day extravaganza, the worst of times cannot even kill the life of couture lovers everywhere. A persistent fashion culture that will not allow itself to be doused by any flame? Now that, my friends, is haute.

Photos via Cobrasnake & Hapsical