Adorned with top hats and riding crops, John Galliano unveiled the Christian Dior Haute Couture Summer 2010 Collection at Paris Haute Couture Week yesterday. Inspired by all things equestrian, the riders- erm- models sported long side-saddle riding skirts, polo sticks, and top hats set upon oversized updos. Tailored to precision, the jackets were swathed with the bold shades of this spring and summer, with red, black, white, and hunting pink making the most prominent appearances. Many of the jackets were tailored at the waist, some with belts to buckle them in place. Black gloves covered the hands of the models, and silver and black buttons studded the blazers. Collared necks, English plaid, and thick pleats were common attributes, as the regal couture collection reigned supreme.
The next set of gals after the equestrian dolls displayed Galliano’s evening collection, dressed head-to-toe in what looked like ruffian garden party gowns. Drawing inspiration from the era of “The Gibson Girl”, these delicate pieces emulated style icon Millicent Rogers of the early 20th century. With booties cropped just above the ankle and exceedingly large hats bearing veils and feathers, these frocktail dresses were my favorite out of the entire show. Embellished lace and tulle in gorgeous pastel shades were just the ticket to match the beautifully big-haired porcelain dolls upon which the clothes were paraded. Some dresses were once again belted, and many skirts had the bunching-and-hanging quality that I adore. Some of the latter skirt-and-blouse pieces did not quite win my heart, but alas, the prior ones were so overwhelmingly breathtaking that I can forgive the final few.
As for the last set of couture, Galliano wowed the crowd with his cunningly sculpted ball gowns that drew gasps from the mouths of the front-row showgoers including Dita Von Teese and Kylie Minogue. Plum, caramel, jade, and rich burgundy gowns stole the show with ravishing ruffles and bows on many of the pieces. My favorite of the gowns was the beige and caramel piece worn stunningly by Magdalena Frackowiak, her arms veiled in elegant, three-quarter sleeve white gloves. Although not my favorite of his work, the ball gowns were extraordinary. With the mix of his equestrian inspiration, early 20th century glam, and bewitching ball gowns, it is easy to say that recession of not, John Galliano will never lose his magical touch.
Have a look at my four favorites below, from the second set of couture inspired by "The Gibson Girl".